There’s something about Edinburgh that lingers with you long after you leave. Maybe it’s the way the ancient cobblestones seem to hum with history, or how the mist off Arthur’s Seat blurs the line between the past and now. But if Edinburgh is the heart of Scotland, Leith — her port — is the blood pumping through it.

Once gritty and rough-edged, today’s Leith is a living paradox: working-class soul meets vibrant creativity. It’s a place where a stroll down the Water of Leith Path can take you from the leafy tranquility of Dean Village straight into the salt-scrubbed air of the docks. The walk itself is a journey — a thread connecting nature, city, and the stories in between.

But it’s when you land in Leith proper that the real magic begins.

Pubs with Character (and Characters)

Leith is home to some of the finest pubs you'll find anywhere in Scotland. At the Port of Leith Bar, where old sailors' tales hang in the air like the smell of ale, you’ll find a crowd that feels refreshingly real. No curated "authenticity" here — just well-poured pints, the roar of laughter, and the occasional philosophical debate breaking out over the jukebox hum.

A few steps away, Teuchters Landing offers a different kind of warmth. Sitting on the Shore, with a whisky selection that could humble the most devoted connoisseur, it’s the perfect place to sink into a chair and watch the world roll by. If you’re lucky, you'll catch an impromptu folk session or a bartender who knows the backstory of every bottle behind the bar.

Food That Tells a Story

Leith isn’t just about the drink — it’s quietly become one of Scotland’s best food destinations. From the Michelin-starred elegance of The Kitchin to hidden gems like Fishers on The Shore, dining here is a sensory trip through Scotland's land and sea. Even a simple fish supper from a local chippy carries a kind of reverence: a celebration of fresh catch, battered and fried with pride.

Street food markets and tiny cafes offer flavours from around the globe, reflecting Leith’s legacy as an international port. It’s the kind of place where you can sip a strong espresso, devour a haggis-stuffed burger, and toast it all with a local craft beer — all before noon if you’re ambitious.